Day 22 - Elizabeth City to Dismal Swamp Deep Creek (34.8 nm, 11:03 hrs)

Left Elizabeth City around 8am and motored at about 4.5 kts most of the way to South Mills Locks.  Realized after about 2 hours that I better get moving so I don't miss the 11am opening.  Ran the next hour at max speed (5.5 kts, 2300 rpm) and got there at 11.  Timing was not a problem as there were about 15 other boats to be locked in and one behind me.  Stopped at the Visitors Center again but just for an hour. Plan was to do the entire Dismal Swamp in one day and be waiting south of the Deep Creek lock for the 8am opening tomorrow.  This plan made for a fairly traffic free crossing of the swamp.  The weather today was perfect - low humidity, not too warm, and lots of sunshine (coming through the trees). Docked around 5pm about 100' from the Deep Creek Mexican restaurant.  Reviews on Active Captain were good but my experience was not so great - lousy service and food so so.  Fun anyway.  Walked to Food Lion (very convenient) for ice and some fruit, etc. Food Lion shopping center also has Chinese and Pizza places).  Very nice area.  Overnight was OK but some traffic noise over the bridge 50' off my bow.

My buddy in Oddessy

 Nice cruiser heading north through the swamp

 Heading for home

 Nice little "one boat" docks to take a break from motoring

 Rest stops for road travelers - with views of the ICW.  Granite mile markers still exist on much of the swamp.

 Blue harron trying to keep ahead of me.

Day 21 - Alligator River South to Elizabeth City (48.6 nm, 10:32 hrs.)

Best day yet. No rain, reached up the Alligator and broad reached all the way to E City.  Well, almost no rain - had a thunderstorm with lots of wind about 1am (anchor held but was up for over an hour checking, setting and resetting anchor alarm, and securing halyard, etc.). Up at 5:30am and left anchorage at 7.  Motored 4 miles to the S end of the Alligator River and set sail.  Sailed on a close reach all the way up (about 15 miles). Just after entering the Albemarle, the wind went from 8 to 15 (surprise, surprise!).  Broad reached all the way to the Pasquatank. Then ran (jibing 2 or 3 times) the last 7 or 8 miles.  Had jib reefed a little but full main (way too much sail).  From the time I left the Alligator River, it took me 1 hour and 50 minutes to cross the Albeamarle Sound (11.6 nm) and 4 hours and 20 minutes to reach Elizabeth City (25.4 nm).  Once in Elizabeth City, had to wait an hour for the draw bridge. Would have stayed at the E City docks but it was a lee shore with lots of chop.  So went back over to the University docks.  Hosed down the boat, took on water, trash, etc.  The school was closed since Dan and his family were away in California.  Sun showered at the docks and went to bed early.
Coming into the E City harbor was my first view of a guy sailing his odd looking 10' gaff rigged boat from Ocracoke Island NC to somewhere in NJ. I passed him but then saw him 4 or 5 times over the next 150 miles. I tried to strike up a conversation with him a couple times but I believe he was German and didn't speak much English.

Scene on the way out of Georgia Bay

 First encounter with weird sailing vessel (Oddessy)

 Elizabeth City Maritime Museum

Day 20 - Bay River to Georgia Bay on Alligator River (52.9 nm, 13:22 hrs.)

Up at 5 for a long day of motoring.  Raised anchor at 6 after a good night sleep.  No cell or internet here - pretty remote.  In fact, there is basically no cell or internet coverage from several miles north of Beaufort to just south of Elizabeth City (with the exception of the area around Oriental).  Headed up the 10 mile cut from Bay River to Pamlico River.  Crossed the Pamlico with a nice 5 knot SW broad reach.  Up the Pungo also on a broad reach with 5 to 7 knots.  Got into Dowery Marina (for ice only) around 1pm and left around 1:30.  Got a shower and 20 knot head wind as I was headed up to the head of the Pungo to enter the alligator-Pungo cut.  This cut took forever but was able to motor sail a little with a starboard beam breeze.  Got to anchorage at 7pm.

Workboat along Alligator-Pungo cut

 One of many similar bridges that provide plenty of clearance (90').  My mast is only 45' off the water.

 A friendly onlooker.

A very long day!

Day 19 - Adam's Creek to Bear Creek via Oriental (26.9 nm, 13:58 hrs.)
Pulled anchor around 6:30am.  Dense fog.  Started motoring slowly using Garmin. Fog would lift then reset before getting out of Adams Creek.  Lifted fully around 8am and I then sailed across the Neuse River at 2 to 3 knots. Got to Deatons at 10:30am. Pump did not come with UPS at 11am as they thought it would. Instead, it came by Fedex at 1:30pm.  Poured rain from about 1 to 2pm.  Installed pump while it was raining and pulled out of the dock at 3:30pm.  Sailed about 20 miles with a 10 to 15 kt tail wind to Bear Creek.  Great sail but an hour before I got there, within a period of less than a minute, wind went from SW at 10 to NW at 20.  I saw it coming and furled the jib and started the engine.  Motor sailed on a close hauled course the last 4 miles with just motor and main.  Got in at 6:30pm - very nice anchorage (glad I had the Garmin to get in though).

Like motoring with your eyes closed.  Thank Garmin - but still nerve racking.

New fuel pump and hose - no more recycling fuel back into the tank!

Bear Creek, off Bay River - this was one of the prettiest and most peaceful anchorages.

Adam's creek, across Neuse River, into and out of Oriental, Neuse River north to Bay River.

Day 18 - Beaufort Docks to Adam's Creek (15.3 nm, 5:36 hrs.)

A sad day - departing Beaufort.  Met Captain Ron Smith around 9:30am. He is a friend of Mike Beale's and Mike had told me to look him up. He owns a 45' sail/charter boat and a marina in Moorehead City.  Took Beaufort Docks courtesy car to grocery store about 3 miles away and provisioned for the trip home.   Went to the Royal James for lunch and then to 5 local antique shops.  Then went back to the Maritime museum (had been there just before closing yesterday) for the noon movie.  Left the dock around 1pm and cleared the draw bridge at the South end of the "docks" at 1:30pm.  Anchored in Turner creek waiting for the tide to change direction and "help" me go north.  It has puzzled me that it seems the current is always flowing south.  It's either flowing south at 3 knots or at 1 knot but seems to never reverse as the charts show.  So I motored against a 1 to 1.5 knot current all the way back up to Adams Creek where I anchored for the night with three other large sailing vessels.  After anchoring, I was entertained by lots of playful dauphins who were swimming all around the boat.

Captain Ron times 2

Leaving Beaufort behind

RS is just north of Beaufort.  It is out in the middle of a fairly large "bay" but marks the split of two narrow channels that have 1 to 2' depths on each side.  You don't want to mess up here!

 This one missed me.  At least it's nice to be able to see them coming.



Day 17 - Beaufort to Cape Lookout and back (20.8 nm, 7.27 hours)

Got up at 6:30am to bright sunshine and a forecast for north at 10.  Perfect for a sail to the Cape.  My plan had been to spend the night in the Cape's bight but with the tropical storm not far south of me, I decided to go for it and make it a day sail. 

Cast off at 8am with a slack tide and sailed under jib alone on a close reach to the Cape.  Got cloudy after leaving the Beaufort inlet but brightened up some off and on.  Too cool to swim etc.  Anchored at NW side of the bight - about a quarter mile from the entrance. Shoals everywhere but the Garmin was accurate for getting around them.  Got there about 10:30am.  Ate lunch at noon and dinghied ashore to pick up a few shells and to step foot on "dry" land.  It was a dreary day with only one other boat anchored in the bight.  Pulled anchor around 1:30pm and reached all the way back to Beaufort.  It was a great wind for the day sail (off shore so minimal waves and reached both coming and going).

Got back to Beaufort Docks around 4pm and decided to stay a second night.  Had great entertainment right on the docks - could hear from the boat. What a perfect place!!  Went to the Royal James for dinner but they had closed early.  Not a lot of night life in Beaufort.  Rode around town and took lots of photos in the historic neighborhoods.  Fixed dinner on the boat then over to the Beaufort Docks restaurant for my second free beer and more music.  To bed around 10:30pm (late night).

Out and back to Cape Lookout bight.



Anchored in Cape Lookout bight (taken with phone from North shore).

 Cape Lookout Lighthouse

 Proof I was there!!

 Photos taken from Beaufort Docks



Day 16 - Adam's Creek to Beaufort (17.3 nm, 5:06 hrs.)

Sailed under jib alone 95% of the way down Adams Creek and Adams Creek Canal.  I ended up arriving an hour before slack tide because I had left an hour early and then made good time.  I had talked to Beaufort Marina a couple weeks before and they suggested I take the southern (main channel) into Beaufort since it has better nav aids and no bridge to contend with.  On my return trip, I took the Northern route and it was fine (thanks to Garmin), and a little shorter.  Rounded Radio Island and then faced a stiff head wind for a mile back up into Beaufort.  No problems with the engine.  Came into Beaufort Docks.  Great Place!

Beaufort is on the Coast but the town is protected by all kinds of little sand bars/shoals and Islands.  The old part of town runs parallel to a deep channel that is about a quarter mile wide. It has a board walk with docks along most of the mile that accommodates boats from the size of mine to ones MUCH larger.  There are lots of moorings out in the channel.  The currents in the channel are pretty strong and change direction with each tidal cycle.  The town is very rich in history.  It has lots of homes on the historic register, a very nice (free) Maritime Museum, and is the location where Blackbeard the pirate sunk the last ship he commanded.

Was easy to get into the floating docks, docks were right along the board walk, office had ice, head with nice showers just 100' from slip.  Was very happy with this choice - Thanks to my friend Mike Beale (who used to live there and had recommended Beaufort Docks).  Did laundry in the back of the General Store.  Fantastic town. The main drag and almost everything the town had to offer was within an easy walk of the boat.  Went to the Back Street Pub for a (Smithwicks) beer. Checked out the Royal James restaurant (recommended by Mike).  Began hearing grumblings about a tropical storm brewing off South Carolina and headed north on Monday.  Not sure what to do about heading out to Cape Lookout.

Mooring field across from Beaufort Docks

 Beaufort Docks

 Maritime Museum - best I've ever seen.  Lots of artifacts and information about Blackbeard and his ship - sunken off Beaufort.

 One of several friends I made in Beaufort

Adams Creek to Beaufort

How much better could it get?  Drinking a free Yuengling, listening to free music, and a fantastic free view!