Day 16 - Adam's Creek to Beaufort (17.3 nm, 5:06 hrs.)

Sailed under jib alone 95% of the way down Adams Creek and Adams Creek Canal.  I ended up arriving an hour before slack tide because I had left an hour early and then made good time.  I had talked to Beaufort Marina a couple weeks before and they suggested I take the southern (main channel) into Beaufort since it has better nav aids and no bridge to contend with.  On my return trip, I took the Northern route and it was fine (thanks to Garmin), and a little shorter.  Rounded Radio Island and then faced a stiff head wind for a mile back up into Beaufort.  No problems with the engine.  Came into Beaufort Docks.  Great Place!

Beaufort is on the Coast but the town is protected by all kinds of little sand bars/shoals and Islands.  The old part of town runs parallel to a deep channel that is about a quarter mile wide. It has a board walk with docks along most of the mile that accommodates boats from the size of mine to ones MUCH larger.  There are lots of moorings out in the channel.  The currents in the channel are pretty strong and change direction with each tidal cycle.  The town is very rich in history.  It has lots of homes on the historic register, a very nice (free) Maritime Museum, and is the location where Blackbeard the pirate sunk the last ship he commanded.

Was easy to get into the floating docks, docks were right along the board walk, office had ice, head with nice showers just 100' from slip.  Was very happy with this choice - Thanks to my friend Mike Beale (who used to live there and had recommended Beaufort Docks).  Did laundry in the back of the General Store.  Fantastic town. The main drag and almost everything the town had to offer was within an easy walk of the boat.  Went to the Back Street Pub for a (Smithwicks) beer. Checked out the Royal James restaurant (recommended by Mike).  Began hearing grumblings about a tropical storm brewing off South Carolina and headed north on Monday.  Not sure what to do about heading out to Cape Lookout.

Mooring field across from Beaufort Docks

 Beaufort Docks

 Maritime Museum - best I've ever seen.  Lots of artifacts and information about Blackbeard and his ship - sunken off Beaufort.

 One of several friends I made in Beaufort

Adams Creek to Beaufort

How much better could it get?  Drinking a free Yuengling, listening to free music, and a fantastic free view!

Day 15 - Oriental to Adams Creek (6.8 nm, 1:42 hours)

Up at 6:30am.  To The Bean for coffee at 7. Decided, reluctantly, to leave for Beaufort since:
1. Wind was heading the direction I wanted to go
2. I had purchased extra tow insurance and Deatons is a Boat US Tow unit
3. I'd be back right when the new pump was scheduled for delivery, and
4. The leak was no worse than before
So off I went!
Broad reached from Oriental to Adams Creek. Ran engine a total of about 3 minutes all day.  What a welcome change.  Wind started out at 10 and built to 25.  Left at 9am and was at anchor (in Cedar Creek) at 11am.  I stopped early because I was still nervous about getting into Beaufort at just the right time to deal with the strong tidal currents. Light rain started about 6:30pm.  Set up the bimini (several days too late) and cleaned the inside of the boat.  Tomorrow - Beaufort!!

Never saw a workboat like this before.  Not sure what he was fishing for.

Day 14 - Oriental NC (0 nm)

In Oriental all day.  At the recommendation of Neal Wischer (met at the Dismal Swamp Info Ctr), I went to The Bean at 7:30 to meet Paul Mascero.  First, met Karen (the manager) who was clearly in charge.  This is a real hang out for the locals and they sometimes need mothering.  That's where Karen comes in.  As predicted, Paul showed up just after 7:30 and I introduced myself.  Of course, he had his usual group of comrades who sat out on the deck (overlooking What I Do), having their morning coffee. 

One guy was had owned a diesel maintenance shop.  He suggested I forget the existing pump and replace it with a new electric pump.  For $60, I could have a more reliable unit. Of course, this would mean making and electrical connection and some way to mount it. Everyone else, including Paul agreed.  In addition, Fred had offered to let me use his spare electric pump to get me by. I later was told by the local mechanic that the electric pumps put out 7 or 8 psi and all I needed was about 2psi so I could expect additional leaks with an electric pump.

Paul was a nice guy.  He is retired.  He drove me out of town to see his boat/home (he lives aboard the 37' catamaran he designed and built).  He was an engineer and is a pretty smart guy - about everything - computers, electrical, mechanical, etc.  He took me to Deatons Boatyard where I talked to Gary about my fuel pump.  He was fairly sure the diaphragm was shot.  A new pump was 197 plus 60 for a fuel hose plus shipping.  Paul took me back to the boat.  After I treated him to lunch, I took the pump off and disassembled it. Sure enough, the diaphragm looked pretty ragged.  If it didn't have a leak, it should have.  Took it over to Deatons on my bike and Gary confirmed it was shot.  Ordered a new pump that was to be in on Tuesday. 

Rode bike to the consignment shop (junky).  Had a West Marine Express and another descent parts place near the city dock but didn't make it to WM. Back at the boat, I reinstalled the old pump, vented the fuel system and made sure the engine would start and run. Ate dinner on the boat (rained from 5 to 8pm) and went to the Oriental Inn marina for a shower and ice.

Paul's catamaran at the "edge" of town.

Day 13 - Bonner Bay to Oriental NC (22.3 nm, 6:18 hrs.)

I'm in Oriental!  The second of my major destinations.  The Sailing Capital of North Carolina!  See http://towndock.net/harborcam for a current view of where I docked for two days.

Pulled anchor about 7am - off to a slow start.  Ran out of the creek with a 5 kt. SW wind.  Sailed around the points with a nice 10 kt. SW wind. Then came the RAIN.  Rained solid from 9am to 1pm - hard at times with lightening and thunder nearby at times. I took shelter behind the mainsail to keep from being pelted.  Came into Oriental harbor inside the boat - on autopilot, viewing the chart plotter and peaking out now and then for a reality check.  Stopped raining just as I entered the harbor.  Anchored once in the confined anchorage area and drug.  Anchored again after wind shifted to S and picked up to 10 to 15.  It was a comforting thought that every piece of electrical and electronic gear (Garmin, auto pilot, engine control panel and instruments, depth, speed, etc.), exposed to the weather was soaking wet and still worked perfectly.  The engine has failed to start twice due to air in the system.  Might be related to the fuel leak (which persists).  When I get home, I'm going to rebuild the entire fuel system.  Initially, the free city dock had 8 or 10 little run abouts taking up space.  Fortunately, a little shower cleared them out and gave me a great spot to tie up.  Saved $57 per night for the marina right next door.  And for $2, I was able to use the marina shower anyway.  It just doesn't get any better.  Met Tom and his wife docked next to me on their Columbia 26.  They were returning to somewhere up north from their 1.5 year trip to the Bahamas and Exumas.

This is the (free) City Dock in Oriental. That's What I Do on the right. It was great.  Right across the street from The Bean coffee shop. Even had free wifi - on the boat!

 This is Tom's boat.  What a contrast to What I Do. At times, I felt a little embarresed having a boat that looked so sterile.

Day 12 - Pungo River to Bonner Bay (36.6 nm, 11:55 hrs.)
What I Do got a good fresh water rinse today.  I think it rained harder than I have ever seen it rain.  Over a 6 hour period, it rained 4 or 5 times and 3 of those were downpours.  I sailed for about 6 hours and motored for 6.  I was warm (most of the time) and got through it.  Like a fool, I still had not unfolded my bimini so the only thing between the weather and me was my foul weather gear - which did an admirable job. 

It was a long day - To Dowery Creek Marina for ice and fuel, around Durants Pt, 8 miles down the remainder of the Pungo to and across the Pamlico River, into Goose Creek, through another 5 mile land cut, into and across Bay River and, finally into Bonner Bay.

Just after I anchored, the sun came out and just before it did, I got to see a beautiful rainbow in the East.  I believe this was the most isolated (from civilization) spot on my trip and with the rainbow, it was like I was in heaven - definitely a time and place to remember.  Knowing I'd be in Oriental tomorrow made me feel like I was nearing my destination - and I was.

Bonner Bay - this is about as remote as it gets. Notice the reef in the main?  It has been there for a week!

Day 11 - Alligator River to Pungo River (48.7 nm, 11:51 hrs.)
Up again at 4:30am. Pulling anchor at daybreak is getting to be the routine.  There is less wind early in the morning and it's nice to get in a little earlier.   Pulled anchor at 6am.  Passed through the Alligator River swing bridge at about 7am.  Wind started SE 5-8 (nice close reach) and changed to S at 15 -20 (you guessed it - on the nose again.  Became 20+ at the south end of the (18 mile long) Alligator River.  I was sure goad to turn west into the smaller Alligator-Pungo section of the river.  I lowered the main and sailed with the jib about noon.  Motor sailed using just the jib for about 3 miles till I entered the 19 mile Alligator-Pungo canal/cut.  Stopped and anchored for lunch just before entering the cut.  Came out of the cut - into the Pungo River about 4pm with winds S at 20.  Motor sailed into the wind and rain for about 3 miles to a very marshy area called Scranton Creek.  The anchorage made me nervous because it was very tight, just 7' of depth, and the wind was still howling across the unobstructed marsh grasses. Fortunately, the anchor held tight.

Alligator River Swing bridge - closes in winds over 30

Barge entering the Alligator-Pungo Canal.

Day 10 - Elizabeth City to Alligator River (40.0 nm, 10:25 hrs.)

Up at 4:30 for an early start.  Wanted to make the 6am bridge opening. With light morning winds, met Fred and Judy on the Pasquotank River at about 9am.  Fred has a beautiful Brewer 44 ketch.  He anchored and I rafted up along side.  Judy fixed a breakfast fit for a king and even gave me half of the meat loaf she had made for Fred the night before (for sandwiches the next two days).  Fred had no comment. Cast off around 10am for the Albermarle Sound.

Every thing I have read and everyone I've talked to says the Albemarle Sound can be treacherous in any wind. I wanted to leave a day later but the forecast was for building winds. Forecast was for 5 to 10 knots, SSW to S.  Actual was 10 to 15 knots, S to SSE (on the nose).  I'm sure it could have been worse but it was pretty nasty at times.

At the north entrance to the Alligator River, I was trying to lower the sails (in 15 to 20 kt winds) when one of the lines snagged the throttle and revved the engine to max rpm.  I got it back down but then had no power - thought it had messed up the linkage.  Checked below and saw no problems.  Was about to end the trip when I decided to shut off the engine and restart it.  That took care of what ever was the problem. 

Pulled into an anchorage just off Sandy Pt. (NW of the Alligator River swing bridge) at around 4:30pm.  Fell asleep at 8.  Another rough day.

Fred's boat - taken on Worton Creek MD